Waves are formed by the wind. The energy in the wind forms waves, which move the energy from one place to another. In the wave, the water particles just move up and down. They don’t move from one place to another. As the wave reaches the shore, at some distance from the shore the bottom of wave hits the ocean floor and stops, while the top part still moves on.
This then topples over and thus forms a breaker. The energy that formed the waves loses itself against the shoreline. The fact that there is energy in the waves can be felt if you just stand in the wave. You feel yourself being carried away.
Below Waves info from Wikipedia (Read More):-
A wave is a disturbance that propagates through space and time, usually with transference of energy. A mechanical wave is a wave that propagates or travels through a medium due to the restoring forces it produces upon deformation. There also exist waves capable of traveling through a vacuum, including electromagnetic radiation and probably[1] gravitational radiation. Waves travel and transfer energy from one point to another, often with no permanent displacement of the particles of the medium (that is, with little or no associated mass transport); they consist instead of oscillations or vibrations around almost fixed locations.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waves
